As the newest member of Anglo-Italian, who has just commissioned their first ever made-to-measure suit, there is no better time for Andrew to note his thoughts on the experience for those curious about the process.
Anglo-Italian has always utilized the Italian approach to their tailoring offering, making the same quality of garment off the rack, made-to-order and made-to-measure. This is an important differentiation, as our workshop on the West coast of Tuscany produces all of the garments to the same specification. Made by hand where it counts, in the armhole, collar, linings and buttonholes with a full floating canvas, this custom block is exactly the type of tailoring we believe in and is something we are truly proud of.
With made-to-measure one has to opt for the house style – ours is distinct, with the round shapes of a natural shoulder and low hanging drape making for a softly constructed piece of tailoring. This roundness is offset by the straight lines of the extended front darts, lapel shape and deep V that is given by our low-button position.
Our jacket, despite being unstructured, is not entirely de-constructed. It strikes a balance between the ease of the Italian school of tailoring we subscribe to and the innate formality of a city like London. The sleevehead is inserted underneath as a shirt would be made, allowing for plenty of movement and leaning into our soft aesthetic.
My individual quirks of posture and build, with my sloped asymmetric shoulders, forward hips and broad shoulders put me beyond the reach of our made-to-order offering. Where postural changes come in to play, we adapt our house block to accommodate these at pattern level, with each customer receiving their own unique pattern to be re-visited for future commissions or adapted further as the client’s body changes.